What to See in Seville

Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, built between the 15th and 16th centuries over the city's former Almohad main mosque, of which the Patio de los Naranjos and the minaret still survive: the Giralda, today a bell tower, climbed by ramps instead of stairs because they were designed for riding a horse to the top.

Inside, the cathedral holds the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world and the monumental tomb of Christopher Columbus, held aloft by four figures representing the former kingdoms of Spain. It's such an immense space that it's worth setting aside real time to explore it unhurried, not just a quick glance.

A short walk from the cathedral stands the Real Alcázar, a palace of Muslim origin rebuilt in Mudéjar style by Pedro I of Castile in the 14th century, with craftsmen who also worked for the Muslim kingdoms of the time. It's the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe: the Spanish royal family still stays in its upper floors when visiting the city.

Its halls — the Patio de las Doncellas, the Salón de Embajadores — and its terraced gardens, with fountains, pavilions and galleries, are among the most photographed corners of Spain, and also served as the setting for Dorne in Game of Thrones. It's worth booking tickets in advance, especially in high season.

Right next to the cathedral and the Alcázar is Santa Cruz, Seville's former medieval Jewish quarter: a maze of narrow streets, tiny squares and courtyards with orange trees and pots on the walls, designed to give shade in a climate where the sun beats down for much of the year.

It's the perfect neighbourhood to get lost in without a map, though also the most touristy in the centre. Its most photogenic corners — Plaza de Doña Elvira, Calle Agua — fill up around midday; going early in the morning or at sunset is the best way to enjoy it without the crowds.

Plaza de España was built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition: a monumental semicircular building with a navigable canal, four bridges representing the former kingdoms of Spain, and a series of tiled alcoves, one for each Spanish province, each with a map and a historical scene.

It sits inside Parque de María Luisa, a leafy park with fountains, gazebos and plenty of shade, perfect for escaping Seville's heat in the mid-afternoon. It's also where scenes from Star Wars and Lawrence of Arabia were filmed.

Before crossing the Guadalquivir, on the city-centre bank stands the Torre del Oro, a 13th-century Almohad tower that once guarded the entrance to the river port; today it's a small naval museum and one of the city's most recognisable landmarks, especially at sunset with the light reflecting off the river.

On the other side of the Triana bridge is the neighbourhood of the same name, traditionally a fishing and ceramics quarter and one of the birthplaces of flamenco. Its streets hold century-old tile workshops and the Mercado de Triana, built over the remains of the Castle of San Jorge, seat of the Seville Inquisition. It's a neighbourhood with less tourism than the centre and a good spot for tapas without Santa Cruz's queues.

July and August in Seville are extremely hot, with temperatures frequently topping 40°C; if you can choose, spring (March-May) or autumn (September-October) offer a much more comfortable climate, and also coincide with Semana Santa and Feria de Abril, two of Spain's most important festivals.

The historic centre is easy to explore on foot, as it's flat and compact, though during the hottest hours it's worth planning indoor visits (cathedral, Alcázar) and leaving outdoor walks for early morning or sunset. Booking Cathedral and Alcázar tickets in advance saves queuing, especially in high season.